http://ozreport.com/20.60#1

http://ozreport.com/20.156#3

Jonathan Dietch <<nmerider>>
writes:

The most critical item is the retaining ring pliers. I've been
using these with good results:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400725441206. Best of all is the seller is in Boise.

If you skimp on the retaining ring pliers you could lose an eye. I kid you not.
Be certain to wear eye protection when you do the removal and installation and
do it someplace where a dropped retaining ring can be recovered.

Next you will need a Torx T-20 bit and some kind of handle to hold it unless you
just buy a 1-piece T-20 driver. This is needed to remove the Delrin cap that
plugs the lower end of each hinge pin.

Be sure to have plenty of good quality vinyl examination gloves for both a
better grip and to keep grease as well as aluminum oxide from staining your skin

The total amount of grease needed is less than the volume of a nickel but plenty
gets wasted in the process so a thimble full will do nicely for each job. Bring
extra grease and gloves because once anyone tests the before and after they may
be mooching your re-lube kit.

Now the tricky part: The aluminum oxide gets on the hinge pins and creates
surface texture there as well as the inside of the upper and lower plates that
the pins go through. Not only is it a good idea to clean out all of the old
grease and aluminum oxide but is also a good idea to polish or smooth the pins
and holes.

The cleaning agent is Simple Green mixed with water about 1:4 ratio. This is
fantastic for removing aluminum oxide. I use it to clean the brake pads and rims
on my road bike. The rims last far longer.

I Like to take a fine Scotch-Brite pad and scrub the oxide off the pins and
holes. First I wet the pad with Simple Green. It's messy so have plenty of paper
towel handy

When you use the Scotch-Brite pad move it radially as with the rotation and not
cross-wise to the motion of the hinge.

Hold the pad in one hand and rotate the hinge pin until clean and relative
smooth.

Never ever, ever use steel wool for this purpose. Don't even think it.

I use 3M Scotch-Brite Light Duty #6448 (dark gray) hand pads. You may be able to
find these at an automotive paint store.

The flat contact surfaces on the top and bottom of the Cross Bars and the
insides of the plates need to be cleaned and re-lubed but I have never had any
oxide build-up of roughness develop here.

My preferred way to do the re-lube job is set the glider up on the control frame
with the leading edges spread just a few feet and of course have the zipper all
the way open.

I remove the two Delrin end caps from the hinge pins in order to access the
retaining rings. Use extreme care when attempting to remove those rings.

Once removed, I gently try push one hinge pin upward and out while jiggling the
crossbar. I suggest only doing one side at a time.

Take your time. This can be extremely easy as it can be exacerbating. Once
you've done it you will be wondering what all the fuss is about. Once you've had
a jam that you can't get unstuck you will be wondering why I made this sound so
easy.